Tru Oil

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Tru Oil

Postby BUNK777 » Mon Feb 06, 2012 11:14 am

What kind of tru oil is best for bows going over the old bear finish?? thanks!! Eric :archer2:
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Re: Tru Oil

Postby Greywolf » Mon Feb 06, 2012 11:37 am

I use Birchwood Casey Gun stock oil.
I sand my risers and apply new finish from the get go. The main reason is Tru oil highlights, so if you have streaks of the old finish it'll highlight the fact you didn't remove it. I use 10 -12 coats depending on the wood, before I start with true oil I put on two coats of super glue and sand with 600 grit to the pores, it not, you'll have a heck of a time filling the dimples of the pores.

*** Here is a little trick I use *** Use the cellophane from a cigarette pack, put the long finger and ring finger in and feel the wood,it'll let you feel all the rough spots, it's like a "feeling stethoscope" for your fingers.
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Re: Tru Oil

Postby BUNK777 » Mon Feb 06, 2012 1:01 pm

awesome! thanks!!! :dance:
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Re: Tru Oil

Postby Gila Mike » Mon Nov 26, 2012 9:05 pm

Mark...

Have you ever tried using a lacquer sanding sealer under Tru Oil? I've got a couple of old bows that I'll be refinishing this winter and I was thinking about using the Parks (brand name) Sanding Sealer to fill pores before applying the subsequent finish coats.

I've used the Tru Oil Filler & Sealer product on a couple of gunstocks in the past. It worked well and was compatible with the Tru Oil finish I applied over it. But I've never tried a lacquer product under Tru Oil and wondered about compatibility.

I was given a quart of the Parks Sanding Sealer so that's why I'm looking for opportunities to use it up.

Mike
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Re: Tru Oil

Postby Greywolf » Mon Nov 26, 2012 11:10 pm

Aloha Mike

It all depends on what grain and wood I use. if I want a sanding sealer, I use hand rubbed super glue as a sealer, then sand with 400, then do another coat till I get it smooth. then I'll use tru oil if I want to do a hand rub finish. I've never used the brand you mentioned. but it's fine to use.
Or if I want a fast super hard finish on a smooth tight grain wood, I'll use Thunderbird finish. I spray one med coat do a steel wool rough and write on the bow with my pen, then let it dry then do another med coat with a gloss finish then one one more final with a satin. let it dry completely then, I'll do a splatter coat of Helmsmann satin holding the can 14-16 inch away and cover completely so it has a rough non glare finish.

So I guess the answer to your question is yes, I do use different types, just depends on how I'm feeling at the moment. and if the bow is going to be for hunting or 3-D or just a refinish job.
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Re: Tru Oil

Postby Gila Mike » Tue Nov 27, 2012 11:17 am

Hello Mark...

Thanks for the good info.

I've not used super glue for a finish sealer but I have used acetone-thinned epoxy ... commonly known as Massey Finish ... for that purpose and found it to be very good and easier to use than I thought it would be at first.

It was a few years ago and I was dealing with an old (1950s) laminated bow with elongate patterns of stress cracking in the fiberglass on both the back and belly sides of the limbs. The overall project turned out really nice but I was disappointed to see that the cracks ... which had been sanded smooth, blown clean with an air compressor, and then sealed with the epoxy mixture ... were still glaringly apparent in the colored glass under the multiple coats of finish I had applied. :(

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Re: Tru Oil

Postby Greywolf » Tue Nov 27, 2012 9:24 pm

On stress fractures I use a double edged dental tool my wife brings home from her office. it makes a rough "V" and then I use loctite 401 and fill the crack just enough it makes a small mound, it shrinks very little. so I hit that with 300 sand paper wrapped on a paint stirring stick. kinda like a file. takes a little while to work it down but the rough edges will hold real well and the fracture all but turns invisible. older yellowed white glass is little more trouble, but I sand the edges of the glass and use the dust to color my 401. Not perfect... but then again it's a 20 yr old bow too.


I try to stay away from restorations, but sometimes people just won't take no for an answer.
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Re: Tru Oil

Postby Gila Mike » Tue Nov 27, 2012 11:37 pm

Hi Mark...

I don't do "restorations" either. And I don't hold my own work to the standards of a professional refinisher. But I try to make the old bows look nicer than they did when I found them. Sometimes that requires only a detailed cleaning, some Min-Wax paste wax and a couple of hours of patient work. Other times there's sanding and refinishing involved. Once I get started, I really enjoy each project.

Stress cracks are just ... unsightly. Snakeskin can be used to hide the ones on the back but the ones on the belly have to be dealt with directly and I'm usually not satisfied with the results of my work. I'm going to look around for a couple of dental pick(s), as you have suggested.

I acquired an old Black Hawk Yellow Jacket longbow a couple of years ago that is a surprisingly good shooter but some previous owner had painted over the limbs and riser in several places, including painting onto the edges of the logo decal attached to the lower limb. The bow was made in 1958 and marked as 55# and it scaled as 54# when I braced it and shot it a few months ago. It's worth beautifying, I think. It will need a full sanding and refinishing. I don't think I will be able to save the decal, however. :cry:

Image

Image

Image

I have also rescued a couple of old Pearson Cougar bows that must be refinished and both have some stress cracks. I like those old bows that were new bows back in the days when I was young and new to archery. :D

Mike
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Re: Tru Oil

Postby Greywolf » Wed Nov 28, 2012 3:12 am

Take a good set of pictures of it, let me get in touch with a friend of mine, he just might be able to help. Don't remove it just yet
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Re: Tru Oil

Postby Gila Mike » Wed Nov 28, 2012 9:36 am

Don't bother, Mark. I'm not interested in preserving it in its present state of decay. If it were pristine, I might attempt to save it. But it's not and I know the refinished bow will look better without it.

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Re: Tru Oil

Postby Greywolf » Wed Nov 28, 2012 12:32 pm

He reproduces decals, he makes his own snake skins from peel and stick paper. but ok, I'll still check with him, he might not be able too

****Update****

Good morning Mark.
Yep, it can be reproduced. The better the picture he can get of it, the better the reproduction will be.

Later Brother.

Rick

Up to you, I can put you in touch with him if you like.
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Re: Tru Oil

Postby Gila Mike » Wed Nov 28, 2012 3:18 pm

Thanks anyway, Mark. It's just not that important to me for this bow.

But I might have a spot for a replacement decal on another bow I own. I'll shoot you a PM about that later if it's okay?

Mike
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Re: Tru Oil

Postby Greywolf » Wed Nov 28, 2012 4:10 pm

Ya bettcha !!

BTW' I just ordered some Thunderbird spray finish from 3 Rivers, they are a sponsor here. it's a A&B mixture, 25% thinner and spray. It sets up in 24 hrs and can be shipped the next day.
Bowyer friend of mine uses it so I ordered some and will be doing my take Down longbow with it.
I'll let ya know how it works.
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